Sweet, warm and completely unmistakable, Joop Homme Eau de Toilette is one of those fragrances people either wore in their twenties or spent their twenties avoiding. The opening is bright and citrus heavy. Mandarin orange, lemon and bergamot arrive together, zesty and clean, with orange blossom already pushing a white floral sweetness up between them. It is a busy top and it moves quickly. The heart is where the character sits. Jasmine is rich and slightly indolic, lily of the valley is green and cool and soapy, heliotrope adds a powdery, slightly floury softness, and cinnamon lays a dry sweet heat over all of it. The flowers are far more prominent than most men's fragrances of its kind would risk, and that is precisely why it has its reputation. Underneath, vanilla and tonka bean build a thick sweetness, the vanilla rounded and the tonka dustier and a little bitter at the edge, while patchouli brings earth and sandalwood a creamy smoothness. Twelve materials, and the sweetness is the point rather than an accident. At eau de toilette strength it is still a loud fragrance. Two sprays is the maximum and one is often enough, because it projects hard and lingers on fabric. Cold weather and night time are where it makes sense, and it is aimed at men who are comfortable being noticed. Joop is a German fashion and fragrance name founded by the Hamburg designer Wolfgang Joop, whose fragrance line opened in 1987 and became the part of the business most people know. He stepped away from running the company in 2001. Clothing is now with Holy Fashion Group, and fragrance and cosmetics are with Coty.
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