Leather at the very top of a composition is a deliberate statement, and Afnan Rare Carbon Eau de Parfum 100ml makes it in the first few seconds. That leather is smooth rather than raw, more polished hide than workshop, and it is sharpened immediately by violet leaf, which is cold, green and faintly metallic. Cinnamon and nutmeg follow with dry heat rather than sweetness, so the opening is spiced, dark and completely without citrus. The middle softens it without brightening it. Rose gives depth, violet adds a cool powdery sweetness that pairs naturally with the leather, cedarwood dries everything out and oud contributes a dark, resinous, slightly sour density. The base is vetiver, sandalwood and amber: bitter root, creamy wood and resinous warmth, which together make a finish that is dry but not harsh. Eleven materials, released in 2020, and every part of it is built for presence. Eau de parfum strength here means strong projection in the first hours and all day longevity, so restraint when spraying is genuinely required. Cold weather is its element and the evening is its hour. It is marketed to men and suits anyone who likes a fragrance with a bit of severity in it. If the sweeter bottles in this catalogue have put you off the house entirely, this is the one that should change your mind. Afnan is an Emirati company trading since 2007 which develops and fills its scents in its own United Arab Emirates facility rather than acting for somebody else's brand. The 9 AM fragrances are the ones it puts forward first, and its collections run from Turathi and Supremacy through to Kiaana and Bouquet.
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